Is Costume Jewellery Worth Anything? How to Value Vintage Fashion Pieces

Most people have a few pieces in their jewellery box that were never very expensive. Brooches and beaded necklaces often get set aside as costume jewellery and end up forgotten for years.

A lot of these pieces are worth more than you might think, especially if they’re signed or well made. Sometimes, they even turn out to be real gold or silver on closer inspection. Today, we’ll show you how experts value vintage costume jewellery, what to look for at home and how to sell your pieces with confidence.

What Is Costume Jewellery?

Costume jewellery is made from non-precious materials, like base metals with glass or crystal stones. It was created to follow fashion trends and match outfits; many pieces were made without investment potential in mind.

Costume jewellery became popular in the 1920s and 1930s, when fashion houses like Chanel started making bold pieces for everyday wear. Its popularity continued through the mid-20th century. Many favourite collectable pieces come from this time.

Since costume jewellery was made to be worn and enjoyed, it regularly reflects the design trends of its era. This connection to a specific time is a big reason why collectors find vintage costume jewellery so appealing today.

What Makes Vintage Costume Jewellery Valuable?

Signed Pieces and Makers' Marks

Experts usually look for a signature first, since signed pieces are often more collectable than unsigned ones. You’ll often find these marks on the back of a brooch, on a clasp or on a small tag near the fastening.

A magnifying glass can be useful because signatures are often tiny and may have faded over time. Some marks can even help you date a piece, like the crown symbol Trifari started using in the late 1930s.

Miriam Haskell, a well-known American designer, didn’t always sign her work until the late 1940s. Even if a piece isn’t signed, it can still be collectable, so it’s worth keeping pieces without a mark. 

Quality of Materials and Construction

Well-made costume jewellery usually seems heavier than cheaper pieces. If the stones are held in place by small metal claws instead of being glued on, that’s a sign of better craftsmanship.

Check the plating as well, since higher-quality pieces often have thicker layers that last longer. Crisp enamel and clear, bright stones also suggest a piece was made with care.

Era and Design

Certain periods are especially popular, like Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 1930s. Geometric shapes and bold colours from this time are still in demand, as many collectors love Art Deco brooches.

Mid-century designs are also sought after, especially large statement pieces and vintage clip earrings. Early plastics like Bakelite have their own fans, with bright-coloured bangles and brooches being especially collectable.

Condition

Condition really matters, especially for signed pieces that collectors want to wear. Missing stones, worn plating or repairs that don’t reflect the original design can all lower the value.

Even so, damaged costume jewellery can still have value and is always worth showing to an expert. We buy costume jewellery in any condition, even if it has broken clasps or missing stones.

Designer Names to Look Out For

Some of the most collectable designer costume jewellery comes from fashion houses like Chanel and Dior. These pieces can be worth a lot, especially if they’re in good condition and clearly signed.

American makers from the mid-20th century, like Trifari and Miriam Haskell, are also popular with UK collectors. Kenneth Jay Lane is another well-known name. Over the years, his bold designs have been worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Onassis and Princess Diana.

In the UK, one of the best-known & appreciated brands is London-based Butler & Wilson, who’ve been making distinctive costume jewellery since the late 1960s. They’re especially well regarded for their signed designer necklaces, which is just one of the types of items we’re always happy to see.

Can Costume Jewellery Be Gold or Silver?

It’s actually quite common for real gold and silver to get mixed in with costume jewellery. A chain or ring might have stayed with fashion pieces for years just because no one checked it.

In the UK, gold items over 1g and silver items over 7.78g must be hallmarked by law before they're sold as precious metal.

Look for numbers such as 375, 585 or 750 for gold or 925 for sterling silver. Our guide to the hallmarks that show real gold explains these marks in more detail. Other stamps can show if a piece is plated instead of solid. Marks like RG or RGP mean rolled gold, while GP and EP mean gold plating or electroplating.

Is Gold-plated Jewellery Worth Anything?

Plated and rolled gold pieces only have a thin layer of gold, so they’re not usually valued for their metal content. Their value mostly depends on the maker, the design and how collectable they are.

A signed rolled gold brooch from a well-known maker can still be worth selling. It’s also a good idea to have unmarked pieces tested, since older jewellery and very small items aren’t always hallmarked. The same goes for silver jewellery, which can look a lot like silver-toned costume pieces.

How Much Is Costume Jewellery Worth?

The value of costume jewellery can vary a lot, depending on the maker, condition and what’s in demand. Unsigned pieces usually sit at the lower end of that range, but attractive designs can still sell well. Signed pieces from popular makers, especially in good condition, are more likely to fetch higher prices.

Online price guides can give you a general idea, but many are based on American sales and may not reflect the UK market. An appraiser who sees the piece in person can give you a much more accurate value.

Don’t Clean Costume Jewellery Before a Valuation

You shouldn’t polish a piece before showing it to someone, as this can actually cause damage. Water and chemical cleaners can loosen glued stones and wear away thin plating that can’t be fixed.

To remove dust, use a soft, dry cloth or a clean, dry make-up brush. Otherwise, it’s best to leave the pieces as they are and let an expert check their condition.

Where to Sell Costume Jewellery in the UK

You can sell costume jewellery in several ways, each with its own pros and cons. Auctions can attract dedicated collectors, but you might have to wait for the sale and pay some fees.

Selling online lets you set your own prices, but it takes time to photograph and describe each item properly. It can also be tricky to know what’s a fair price if you’re not familiar with the market.

Many people like to sell costume jewellery in person to a buyer who can look at everything in one go. This is especially useful if you have a mix of costume pieces and precious metals, since they can all be valued together. If you’re posting items instead, you may want to review the various postal buying services first.

Find Out What Your Costume Jewellery Is Worth

Costume jewellery is often overlooked, but the right maker or era can make a piece valuable. Before you give anything away, it’s a good idea to have an expert take a proper look. You can bring your jewellery box to one of our roadshows across the UK, visit our Leeds store or book a free home visit.

Valuations are free of charge and obligation-free, plus, if you decide to sell, we pay by same-day bank transfer. We’re proud members of the National Association of Jewellers and have a 4.8 Google rating from over 2,000 reviews. Contact our team today.