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Valuable Vintage Costume Jewellery: A Guide to Brands and Iconic Pieces

Costume jewellery, also known as fashion jewellery, has been a popular accessory for many years, and the industry has seen many famous designers come and go. These designers have left a legacy behind in the form of unique and rare pieces that are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. In this blog post we will look into costume jewellery designers and rare pieces that have made significant amounts at auction. It is important to note that the selling price of vintage costume jewellery is influenced by condition, age and rarity.

Chanel

One of the most famous costume jewellery designers is Coco Chanel. Chanel began creating costume jewellery in the 1920s, and her designs were known for their simplicity and elegance. Chanel costume jewellery pieces are typically made from materials such as gold-tone metal, faux pearls, and rhinestones, and often feature the brand's iconic interlocking CC logo. Some of the most sought-after Chanel costume jewellery pieces include the "Gripoix" glass pieces from the 1920s and 1930s, as well as the "Chanel chain" necklaces and bracelets. Her signature piece was the pearl necklace, which she often layered and paired with other jewellery. In 2015, a Chanel pearl necklace sold at auction for £29,000, proving that the designer's pieces are still highly prized today.

Kenneth Jay Lane

Another famous costume jewellery designer is Kenneth Jay Lane. Lane began designing jewellery in the 1960s and his pieces were known for their bold and colorful designs. His designs often incorporated colorful and oversized gems, faux pearls, and gold-tone metal. Lane's designs were heavily influenced by his travels around the world, and his pieces often featured bold colors and intricate details. One of his most sought-after pieces is the "Safari" necklace, which features a large gold-tone pendant in the shape of a lion's head. In 2021, a Kenneth Lane Safari necklace sold at auction for £3,500, demonstrating the continued interest in his pieces. One of his most famous pieces is the "fruit salad" necklace, which features a variety of colorful gems and fruits. In 2013, a Kenneth Jay Lane necklace sold at auction for £6,875, proving that his pieces are still highly valued today.

Miriam Haskell

Miriam Haskell is another famous costume jewellery designer whose pieces are highly sought after. Haskell began designing jewellery in the 1920s, and her pieces were known for their intricate designs and use of natural materials. Haskell's designs were known for their intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail, with many pieces featuring hand-sewn beads, pearls, and rhinestones. One of her most famous pieces is the "Haskell Flower" brooch, which features a large flower made from a combination of beads, rhinestones, and other materials. In 2019, a Miriam Haskell necklace sold at auction for £5,000, proving that her pieces are still highly prized today.

Eisenberg

Another notable costume jewellery designer is Eisenberg. The company began producing jewellery in the 1930s, and its pieces were known for their high-quality craftsmanship and innovative designs, which often featured intricate metalwork and the use of colorful gemstones and rhinestones. One of Eisenberg's most famous pieces is the "Eisenberg Original" brooch, which features a large, sparkling rhinestone surrounded by smaller rhinestones. In 2014, an Eisenberg necklace sold at auction for £1,750, showing that the designer's pieces are still popular with collectors.

Trifari

Trifari is another famous costume jewellery designer that has left a lasting legacy. The company began producing jewellery in the 1920s, and its pieces were known for their high-quality pieces and use of colored rhinestones. Trifari quickly gained a reputation for its ornate and stylish designs, which often featured intricate metalwork and the use of stones and faux pearl. One of Trifari's most famous pieces is the "Fruit Salad" brooch, which features a variety of colored gems and fruits. In 2019, a Trifari necklace sold at auction for £4,000, proving that the designer's pieces are still highly valued today.

Schreiner

In addition to these famous designers, there are also many lesser-known designers whose pieces are highly prized by collectors. For example, Schreiner is a costume jewellery designer that is highly valued for its bold and colorful designs. The company began producing jewellery in the 1950s, and its pieces were known for their use of colored gems and innovative designs. Schreiner's jewellery was particularly popular in the 1950s and 1960s, with many of the brand's pieces featuring large stones and a mix of materials such as glass, metal, and enamel. Schreiner's designs often incorporated unusual stones and textures, such as baroque pearls and cabochon stones, and many pieces were set in elaborate metalwork settings. In 2015, a Schreiner necklace sold at auction for £1,500, proving that the designer's pieces are still highly sought after.

Joseff of Hollywood

Another lesser-known costume jewellery designer is Joseff of Hollywood. The company began producing jewellery in the 1930s, and its pieces were known for their use of metal and innovative designs. Joseff quickly gained a reputation for his ornate designs and his ability to create custom pieces for specific films and characters. Joseff's jewellery was particularly popular during Hollywood's golden age in the 1930s and 1940s, with many of the brand's pieces featuring intricate metalwork and the use of matte gold plating to create a unique, antiqued look. One of Joseff's most famous pieces is the "Snake" bracelet, which features a coiled serpent made from metal. In 2014, a Joseff necklace sold at auction for £4,500, proving that the designer's pieces are still highly valued today.

Weiss

Another designer whose pieces have seen a recent surge in popularity is Weiss. The company began producing jewellery in the 1940s, and its pieces were known for their stylish designs and use of rhinestones. Weiss quickly gained a reputation for its high-quality designs and attention to detail, with many of the brand's pieces featuring intricate metalwork and sparkling rhinestones. Weiss jewellery was particularly popular in the 1950s and 1960s, with many of the brand's pieces featuring floral and nature-inspired designs. The brand also produced a range of statement pieces, such as bold bracelets and necklaces, that were popular with fashion-forward women of the time.One of Weiss's most famous pieces is the "Waterfall" necklace, which features a cascade of rhinestones in shades of blue and green. In 2020, a Weiss Waterfall necklace sold at auction for £2,500, demonstrating the continued demand for the designer's pieces.

It's important to note that while some costume jewellery pieces can command high prices at auction, not all pieces are created equal. Rarity, condition, and the designer's reputation all play a role in determining the value of a piece. Additionally, it's important to be aware of counterfeit pieces, as many designers have been copied over the years.


In recent years, there has also been a trend towards collecting vintage costume jewellery as a form of sustainable fashion. Many collectors appreciate the unique designs and materials used in vintage pieces, and see them as a way to express their individual style. Vintage costume jewellery can also be a more affordable way to own a piece from a famous designer, as prices for new pieces from these designers can be quite high.

In conclusion, costume jewellery designers have created some of the most beautiful and unique pieces of jewellery in the fashion industry. From Coco Chanel's classic pearls to Trifari's bold "Fruit Salad" brooch, these designers have left a lasting legacy in the fashion world. Collectors and enthusiasts continue to seek out these pieces, and their popularity shows no signs of slowing down. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a newcomer to the world of vintage costume jewellery, there's never been a better time to explore the beautiful and intricate designs of these talented designers.


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